Alright so this is for the people asking how to put S5 T2 suspension/brakes on an S1/2/3.
Here's a proper write up.
If you have any questions feel free to ask.
I'll be doing a write up on rear coilovers coming up once I've got all of my parts together.
Stock up on your favorite cheap beer cause this is gonna be fun
Get rid of the garbage
Throw it in the trash
Trim about 3-4mm off of the lip of each control arm so as to not gouge your new rotors. Might as well get rid of the steering stops as you're at it.
Moog Ball Joints K500136
Buy some 1988 Mazda 626 sedan ball joints. Moog K500136 They're gonna need to be tack welded into the arms for safety reasons, since it's not a perfect press fit. This type of tack welding press in ball joints is also commonly done on stock ball joint replacement and is cheap insurance they never start moving.
(moog k7147 do fit the fc knuckle but i cant confirm yet if they fit the LCAs they maybe a nice option for use with s13 LCAs )
If you get some dicked up knuckles like I did you'll need to drill out the ball joint securing threads and run a bolt with a long enough shank through and put a nylock nut on the end. You'll also need to get rid of the backing plate as it won't clear the LCA
You're gonna want to pick up a set of these tie rod adjusters so that you aren't at 0 toe with only 4 threads of engagement with the stock ones.
You're gonna want to slot your strut mount if you decide to use fc plates. In my opinion you should use the original hole for the outermost hole towards the front of the car. That way if you are running camber plates you will have full adjustment of camber and caster.
Get yourself some 4 piston T2 calipers. Then get some nice pad/rotors for that. I personally enjoy the EBC Redstuff pads/EBC high carbon steel rotors on my car. The braking force is neck breakingly good. It's also a perfect balance with the GSL-SE master cylinder.
Pic for reference note the piece of added hardline
This is just to show that you will need hardline from the strut to the caliper. Ignore that this car is using the FB strut still. Pic for reference
Don't forget to adapt your existing hardlines to an FC compatible fitting. Then you need some FC soft lines and about 6 inches of hardline from each strut to each caliper.
Sit back and enjoy being dirt nasty low and having some decent stopping power for the first time. Finish the case of beer and enjoy looking at your handy work.
You're gonna need a minimum of a 15" wheel to make it work. I'm running 15x7.5 +20 and I've got 2.5mm of clearance from my caliper to the barrel of my wheel and 2mm to the face of my wheels.
Big Thanks to Alex Nehem for the help with the photos, and write up. Check him out on instagram @sa22c_love
Feel Free to Message me in the comments section if you have any information to add or need help figuring something out. Or hit me up on my instagram @sakisteve
If you have any questions feel free to ask.
I'll be doing a write up on rear coilovers coming up once I've got all of my parts together.
Stock up on your favorite cheap beer cause this is gonna be fun
Get rid of the garbage
Throw it in the trash
Trim about 3-4mm off of the lip of each control arm so as to not gouge your new rotors. Might as well get rid of the steering stops as you're at it.
Moog Ball Joints K500136
Buy some 1988 Mazda 626 sedan ball joints. Moog K500136 They're gonna need to be tack welded into the arms for safety reasons, since it's not a perfect press fit. This type of tack welding press in ball joints is also commonly done on stock ball joint replacement and is cheap insurance they never start moving.
(moog k7147 do fit the fc knuckle but i cant confirm yet if they fit the LCAs they maybe a nice option for use with s13 LCAs )
If you get some dicked up knuckles like I did you'll need to drill out the ball joint securing threads and run a bolt with a long enough shank through and put a nylock nut on the end. You'll also need to get rid of the backing plate as it won't clear the LCA
You're gonna want to pick up a set of these tie rod adjusters so that you aren't at 0 toe with only 4 threads of engagement with the stock ones.
You're gonna want to slot your strut mount if you decide to use fc plates. In my opinion you should use the original hole for the outermost hole towards the front of the car. That way if you are running camber plates you will have full adjustment of camber and caster.
Get yourself some 4 piston T2 calipers. Then get some nice pad/rotors for that. I personally enjoy the EBC Redstuff pads/EBC high carbon steel rotors on my car. The braking force is neck breakingly good. It's also a perfect balance with the GSL-SE master cylinder.
Pic for reference note the piece of added hardline
This is just to show that you will need hardline from the strut to the caliper. Ignore that this car is using the FB strut still. Pic for reference
Don't forget to adapt your existing hardlines to an FC compatible fitting. Then you need some FC soft lines and about 6 inches of hardline from each strut to each caliper.
Sit back and enjoy being dirt nasty low and having some decent stopping power for the first time. Finish the case of beer and enjoy looking at your handy work.
You're gonna need a minimum of a 15" wheel to make it work. I'm running 15x7.5 +20 and I've got 2.5mm of clearance from my caliper to the barrel of my wheel and 2mm to the face of my wheels.
Big Thanks to Alex Nehem for the help with the photos, and write up. Check him out on instagram @sa22c_love
Feel Free to Message me in the comments section if you have any information to add or need help figuring something out. Or hit me up on my instagram @sakisteve
nice.. I think we chatted on rx7 club in regards to the brakes and suspension stuff...
ReplyDeleteWe sure have, i remember the nice machining work you did to build your setup.
DeleteHey I was wondering if you still have the pictures for this writeup? I'm very interested to swap my FC stuff to my FB!
ReplyDelete