Crazy ideas sometimes make the best ideas.
Showing posts with label s13. Show all posts
Showing posts with label s13. Show all posts
Tuesday, February 20, 2018
Donnie's WideBody V8 FB RX7 "The Mistress"
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
Looking deeper you can tell that the car has been painstakingly built. Donnie says that it took him 2 years to build from an empty bare shell. With nobody building these cars for Proam level drifting purposes, Donnie pulled his inspiration pretty much from thin air. Pouring in hard work, blood sweat and tears. Owning Stardom Fab, he quickly took to making all the parts that they just don't build for FB RX7s. There isn't a piece of this car that hasn't been touched by Donnie, from the cage, suspension,engine to the chassis and wing. the real question on this car really is what didn't he build?
One of the crowning jewels to Donnie on this car is the steering angle, without cut knuckles, he has figured out how to push about 70 degrees of steering angle! And manages that with a stock steering box!
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| Look At all that Angle |
With all that work quickly a goal formed, "to gain sponsors and compete in Vegas Drift Pro-am", but like many drivers the sponsorship route failed. But that has not deterred Donnie one bit. Fitting for Vegas.... He wants to Double Down and go boosted before the next shot at Pro-Am.
I personally can't wait to see what's next from Donnie's bag of tricks he seems to have.
As one of the few people that even try to drift an SA/FB RX7 on this level his advice to the the new SA/ FB Drifter would be:
"Learn to drift the car as is then when you can consistently link the track, start small on upgrades then learn that set up and then do it over again."
I couldn't say it any better myself, the SA/FB RX7 is such a great Chassis to start with and it has a lot to give in teaching the driver the skills they will need to be great! Donnie has also be great to the SA/ FB RX7 drift community building a Facebook group to help us all come together and share our knowledge, from building our cars to driving our cars. I know personally he has never hesitated to help me out if i had a question, or if I have to compare something on my car to his. It was fun to see this car come together and how much more places it has to go! Cars like this are neat, as they can serve to be an inspiration into what can be done with our cars.
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
Modification List
Motor:
- Ford 5.0
- GT40p heads
- Alex parts valve spring kit
- Crane 1.7 roller rockers
- Trickflow pushrods
- b303 cam
- BBK headers
- GT40p intake
- 70mm BBK throttle body
- C&L 75mm MAF housing
- 24lb injectors
- BBK fuel Pressure Regulator
Drivetrain:
- Stock t5 trans w/ z32 slave cylinder supplied by a wilwood clutch master
- Custom driveshaft
- Ford explorer 8.8 That's been shortened with custom cnc brackets by Stardom Fab
Suspension
- Custom 4 link Rear Upper and Lower control arms with heims on all ends. by Stardom Fab
- T3 panhard bar.
- Megan racing FC coilovers adapted to fit.
- Custom (extended 3" per side) front lower control arms by Stardom Fabmade from ar500 armor plate and dom tube made to use a factory s4 rx7 ball joint.
Brakes
- Turbo 2 Front Brakes and Spindles
- Explorer Rear Disks and Calipers
- Inline hydraulic handbrake by Stardom Fab
Interior
- Trailtech Vapor LED Gauge Pod in custom dash by Stardom Fab
- Hit and Run Quick Release
- Momo hub adapter
- NRG steering wheel
Safety
- Full Formula D spec cage by Stardom Fab
Fuel
- Jaz fuel cell
- Assault Racing Low Pressure Pump
- Custom Surge Tank by Stardom Fab
- deatschwerks 255il fuel pump
- AN fuel lines
Electrical
- 500cca Harley agm battery
- Custom wiring throughout
Exterior
- Custom wing stands with 69" wing by Stardom Fab
- 6" led light bars for headlights
- Blacktie Motors bumper lights with blue lights.
- Blacktie Motor's Widebody
Steering
- T3 steering box brace
- FC Megan racing outer tie rods
- FC Godspeed outers used as inners
- 70 degrees of steering angle
Shameless Shout Outs
- BlackTie Motor Works
- @Stardom Fab on Instagram
- Photo Credit goes to Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear on Instagram. Great group of local photographers that showcase locals and huge events.
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
Monday, February 5, 2018
Stock S13 Gear For RX7 Suspension
So you want to upgrade that 1st gen Rx7 suspension to the S13 gear an affordable, almost bolt on option. This is the Economy Version so lets keep it affordable! i would note that you maybe able to use complete FC coilovers and fcknuckles and brakes for this mod, but i have not confirmed the s13 ball joint fitting the FC knuckles, they would have to be flipped sides for the difference of front steer vs rear steer , but I did see a few things that would suggest that they fit.... and maybe overall simpler as the top hats should not have to be replaced.
I would note, s13,s14,s15, and skyline gear will work as long as they are interchangeable pieces. I suggest s13 as it plentiful and affordable. As well as lending itself to tons of brake upgrades and aftermarket support. If you'd like to read more on the brake options check out this link
Brake Upgrades for S13 Gear
First thing is first, what you will need to get started.
S13 LCAs (note - s14/skyline LCAS are 10mm wider than s13, This means wider track width)
S13 Complete Knuckles/hubs/brakes
S13 Coilovers
All s13 related hardware to mount knuckles to coilovers
FC Camber Caster plate (optional as you could use the stock bearing plate although not recommended)
QTY 2 M14 Grade 10.1 Bolts and matching lock nut (9/16th grade 8 bolts would work as well)
Roughly 80mm long
QTY 2 M14 Grade 10.1 Bolts for rear Coilover lower mounts
9.8103R energy suspension bushing kit
9.8117R energy suspension end link kit
Im gunna start by saying i got as many pic of the stock gear as i could, but i never did the conversion with stock gear, so i have substituted some of the needed pics with my setup that utilized Fully adjustable gear, but same premise is there. IM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU FUCK UP YOUR SHIT, THIS IS ALL AT YOUR OWN RISK, KNOW YOU SKILL LEVEL, AND THIS ASSUMES YOU HAVE SOUND AUTOMOTIVE KNOWLEDGE AND UNDERSTANDING TO COMPLETE THIS SAFELY.
First remove factory RX7 LCAs struts and brakes, they can be removed as 1 assembly.just disconnect; Tie-rod end, LCA bolt, brake hose( at caliper),tension rod bolts, and sway-bar link. If you cant do this you shouldnt be attemping this.
Starting on the S13 LCA you will need to Modify the bushings on the new S13 LCAs shaving the sides off of them to slip into the mounts on the rx7, it is roughly .20 inch off of each side.
You then will need to drill out the factory RX7 LCA mount holes on the sub-frame from 10mm to 14mm(9/16th)
M14 bolt Vs Stock M10
You should be able to slip the arm in now and as well as the new M14 bolt.
Both of the tension rod holes will not align unless you flip them 180 degrees, you will have to adjust them to the proper caster though. Reinstall the Tension rod bolts in the s13 LCA and now you LCA should be mounted.
As you can see factory position Doesn't align
Flip this 180* bolt holes will line up with the s13 LCA
The top hats on the s13 suspension are three bolt , and the rx7 are 4 bolt so you will have to remove them and reuse the factory rx7 bearing plates, or upgrade to a set of FC plates and swap those over onto the coil overs. IF USING FC CAMBER PLATES you will have to open up the holes on your strut tower for them to fit, less than a 1/4 inch in each direction away from center.
3 bolt s13 mount
4 bolt FC mount
It should be looking something like this once you stuff the strut into place.
Note the bolt holes are sloted just a tad to fit the FC camber Plates
Slip the strut into the tower and bolt down, slip the bottom coil-overs into the knuckle and the attach knuckle to the ball joint.
the tie-rod end will need to be adjusted out to align with the tie-rod mount on the knuckle. you will have to rotate the tie-rod end a bit to align it with the s13 knuckle, or alternatively you could bend down the knuckle tie rod mount. But its really unnecessary
The Factory rx7 sway-bar end-link should line up as well to the s13 lca hole. if not long enough you could use a fox body mustang front end link to replace it. (As well as numuous others but fox body stuff is cheap and plentiful)
Then the factory rx7 brake line will screw right into s13 calipers, make sure to use a copper washer in the connection. bleed brakes and your done. I know in the pic here we have the tube arm i did, but look at the brake caliper and hose , that how it will turn in.
Note Brake hose, and M14 bolt in the stock subframe
slap the wheel on and get to alignment
Now you need to do an alignment. The caster/camber/and toe need to be dialed into your settings. You should have a bit extra camber just from the S13 LCA being a longer LCA, as well as all that extra camber adjustment up top. And the front is done. track width has increased about 2 inches total in the front as the s13 LCAs are longer than the factor RX7 LCAs. Simple.Simple.
Now for the rear suspension
So now if you have nonadjustable dampeners, you will break them down. Removing the top bearing plates, and use a washers and nut and should look like the set below
If you are using adjustables, its a tad more work, start by remkving bearing plate .you need a top hat made and a stud mount to screw into dampener rod, then i added bushings to each side and washers, then used a lock nut. They should look like something below
Below is what your car probablly looks like in the rear wheel wells, we are going to need to trim the body to fit the coilovers.Just this small section has to be removed.
Here is what it looks like with the rears slipped in.
Coilover slipped right in the top perfectly , the bottom however the bolts where much smaller than the s13 mounts , so I pressed out the factory dampener bushings and machined them down and pressed them into the coilovers so I could reuse my factory bolts. Dampener Drop brackets would be a great idea at this point but at not needed.
But you should get some m14 bolts and drill the lower damper hole up to 14mm and you will have to just barely bend the tab a tad wider apart and the lower bushing should slip in, or you will have to grind a tad off the coilover bushings.
here is what the top of the mount looks like using the washer and bushing on the extension stud.
Teaser of Z32 brakes on Car
With that done the rear is pretty much done. you will need to add a 1" spacer or adaptor, or adjust wheel offset to match front track width and bolt pattern.
Overall General Notes And other important info
This will make the front 4x114.3 unless you use a 5 lug setup, if you are a GSLSE you will have 4X114.3 lug pattern in the rear but you will need a 1" spacer to bring rear to same track width as front , but if you are 4x110 like most of us, a set of 1" adapters will be able to bring the rear to a 4X114.3 bolt pattern and bring to correct track width.
If using s14 coilovers you will have to mod the coilover mounts on the bottom rear to work
if you decied to go 5 lug you could easily swap a ford 8.8 5 lug without adaptors and have close to the same track width, and swap the front to 5 lug S-chassis gear, then welcome the world of 5 Lug wheels.
S14 coils Modded to fit ( Not the most recommended way.)
S14 coils Modded to fit ( Not the most recommended way.)
Big Thanks to Simon LeBlanc for the help with the stock photos, and steps involved using the stock gear. Also he completed a 1jz swap on his 7. Check him out on instagram @1jzfb
Feel Free to Message me in the comments section if you have any information to add or need help figuring something out. Or hit me up on my instagram @sakisteve
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