I had gotten my rear suspension into the rx7 and had tested it and kinda was getting the itch to take a drive. With not having to work during the week I thought it a perfect time to take my daughter for a spin in the rx7 for a little daddy daughter time.
We took a cruise to the park and out into the country
We stopped in marytown near this old feed mill.
It made for a neat backdrop and I grabbed some pics.
But mostly she had fun, I had fun, and now she says "car, vroom vroom"
Cant help but to smile when I hear that.
#prouddad
So I ended up not going with ,exactly, what I mentioned in the first post. I was able to get my hands on a set of HKS Hiper D S13 Coilovers.
They were used but I scored them for $300 , little dirty but that's not a big deal.
I set out to tackle the rear coilovers first, so I drew up some stuff and ripped out a prototype to change my tophats so I wouldn't have to mess with cutting the inner fender well.
I eventually machined some tophats from aluminum and bought some energy suspension bushings for swaybar end links as they are the same size as the coilover stud
I did score some smaller springs from a local race shop for free. Higher spring rates but it doesn't have the helper coils.
After facebook friend had sent me this shot of his setup on some nonadjustables. I think this is the route I'm ending up going.
So after mocking it up this is what I had, I decided not to go with the shorter springs I also decided that I want gunna use my tophats because I needed a stud extention and would not be able to adjust them any more as the adjustment screw was at the top.
My Facebook friend was also kind enough to send me this pic of his car and the trimming needed.
So now I had heard that if you trim the inner fender well that full size coilovers would fit, was well as slide into the lower mounts with a tad of trimming.
After starting to mock it all up I decided it was worth trimming the inner fender.
Coilover slipped right in the top perfectly , the bottom however the bolts where much smaller than the s13 mounts , so I pressed out the factory dampener's bushings and machined them down and pressed them into the coilovers so I could reuse my factory bolts.
With that done the rear is pretty much done.
Now Many have try many different things, but this is i believe to be the most cost effective way to build a no lag turbo system. It is based on a design, by Nick Mann. Well I was working in the aerospace industry, I learned of a car racer that was using a Helicopter Gas Turbine APU (Auxiliary Power Unit) to power his race car, as he worked in the aerospace industry. After Much research I found out it was Nick Mann and his "Mannic Beattie" , an AWD hill climb monster. You can find More Information on this car at http://raceenginedesign.co.uk/the-manic-beattie/
The Manic Beattie Hillclimb Car
So Now that I got you all excited about that car porn.... I can tell you, how to do this for CHEAP, and have the same benefits....
You are probably saying to yourself, I can't afford a APU, "if you know what these cost and got the loot, good luck on getting one....
I have an alternative Idea. How about turning a turbo into a gas powered turbine yourself, it cheap, easy, and you don't need much believe it or not!
First yoiu have to understand how Turbines work. This should help.
Basically a Turbo works almost the same as a typical turbine engine, it is just missing a combustion chamber. so we have to add that!
It will loook something like this!
Now how is this going to help us, well, now you have a turbine! We will use this in order to power our turbocharger now!
And Now Some Silly Jet DIY Video
Now there is no reason, we cannot apply the same idea from a small turbo turned turbine, feeding a larger turbo and creating a no lag boost system as it is running as an APU.
NO LAG.
I personally Would love to build these and install it on a v8 in a little car and spend the rest of the money on suspension and enter into the Grassroots Motorsports Challange
IT WOULD BE A MONSTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Largest challenge is most likely controlling the turbine as well as output boost, but i imagine that could be simply overcome from a arduino controller and a few simple solenoids and pressure sensors
Her Tail Parts only Cost us $150 for everything, granted the seat and the tail are used but the undertail was brand new.Now Installation went quite easily. I just alined the tail section where it looked good, drilled and tapped some new holes into the frame to bolt it too, made custom rear mounts for the upper part of the tail, and trimed the undertail to fit. All and All, it turned out pretty good. The seat from the gsxr needed a little trimming around the seat mounts to get it to fit, but the front hooks even grabbed the stock spot from the honda, it was like they where designed by the same company. So now the much awaited Photos of the installed tail.
The Tail And Bike Are not finished yet As I have yet to pull the stock vinyls off and paint the rear tail just gloss black, and then we will be ordering the Pink Vinyl to finish the bike and add the awsome fushia zebra stripes. We will see how it goes cutting the zebra stripes on my vinyl cutter, should turn out as Awesome as I Imagine.
My girlfried has a CBR600 F4 and thats right it is a F4 not an F4i, all and all it's a pretty decent bike. But its BANANA Yellow and it has a Banana SEAT!!!! I hate the seat most of all and it doesn't help the bike is yellow...... that and it needs some updates to make it look like a much newer bike. Like the single headlight... to a dual headlight conversion. And Some Sweet paint to make it all Look great...
It does have the Polished frame, and wheels going for it, and a Micron Exhaust, custom grips, and is lowered about 4 inches. It runs great and it a perfect size for her, we just need to get it up to date.
So on to this swap! The tail swap it pretty straight forward and really simple on this bike. What do we need?
Here what u need to get started!! All the following parts should be for or from a 2001-2003 Honda F4i:
The Major Parts:
- Subframe
- Rear Cowl - new or used, generic aftermarket replacement(will need to be painted to match your bike so color is not important)
- Rear footpegs
- Rear Tail Light
- Undertray, with Battery compartment Lid... Important to relocate the ECU module
After Market Undertail - you won't need a brakelight or a undertray, as the undertail replaces them
- Front Seat
- Rear Seat
And random hardware to make it all work.
Before
After
It Provides a MUCH sportier look then the original Banana Seat did. This make the CBR600 F4 look like a much newer bike!
I would also like to swap the single headlight both the dual head light fairing setup. That would really help update bike alot! And I really belive it will look great. And Then to finish off the bike in a Fusha and Black zebra strips and chrome CBR600 and Honda Logos!
Single Light Before
Duel Light After
What this might look like
So we started on the conversion. but not to a f4i a GSXR Solo tail! It Fit well and should be easy for me to swap out here is a teaser pic!
Brittany's Bike with the race Tail Mocked up On it.
I just need to Find a GSXR Seat and some type of undertail and we should be golden!
