I did the fried chicken thighs like the recipe but made spicy mayo and no lettuce.
I think it would be bomb with a sunnyside up egg and kimchi. Just my 2 cents. Otherwise it was a tad bland.
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Crazy ideas sometimes make the best ideas.
Tuesday, February 20, 2018
Japanese fried chicken on rice bun #instablog
Welp i had to try.... japanese chicken thigh rice burgers, with spicy mayo.
I did the fried chicken thighs like the recipe but made spicy mayo and no lettuce.
I think it would be bomb with a sunnyside up egg and kimchi. Just my 2 cents. Otherwise it was a tad bland.
I did the fried chicken thighs like the recipe but made spicy mayo and no lettuce.
I think it would be bomb with a sunnyside up egg and kimchi. Just my 2 cents. Otherwise it was a tad bland.
Donnie's WideBody V8 FB RX7 "The Mistress"
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
Looking deeper you can tell that the car has been painstakingly built. Donnie says that it took him 2 years to build from an empty bare shell. With nobody building these cars for Proam level drifting purposes, Donnie pulled his inspiration pretty much from thin air. Pouring in hard work, blood sweat and tears. Owning Stardom Fab, he quickly took to making all the parts that they just don't build for FB RX7s. There isn't a piece of this car that hasn't been touched by Donnie, from the cage, suspension,engine to the chassis and wing. the real question on this car really is what didn't he build?
One of the crowning jewels to Donnie on this car is the steering angle, without cut knuckles, he has figured out how to push about 70 degrees of steering angle! And manages that with a stock steering box!
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| Look At all that Angle |
With all that work quickly a goal formed, "to gain sponsors and compete in Vegas Drift Pro-am", but like many drivers the sponsorship route failed. But that has not deterred Donnie one bit. Fitting for Vegas.... He wants to Double Down and go boosted before the next shot at Pro-Am.
I personally can't wait to see what's next from Donnie's bag of tricks he seems to have.
As one of the few people that even try to drift an SA/FB RX7 on this level his advice to the the new SA/ FB Drifter would be:
"Learn to drift the car as is then when you can consistently link the track, start small on upgrades then learn that set up and then do it over again."
I couldn't say it any better myself, the SA/FB RX7 is such a great Chassis to start with and it has a lot to give in teaching the driver the skills they will need to be great! Donnie has also be great to the SA/ FB RX7 drift community building a Facebook group to help us all come together and share our knowledge, from building our cars to driving our cars. I know personally he has never hesitated to help me out if i had a question, or if I have to compare something on my car to his. It was fun to see this car come together and how much more places it has to go! Cars like this are neat, as they can serve to be an inspiration into what can be done with our cars.
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
Modification List
Motor:
- Ford 5.0
- GT40p heads
- Alex parts valve spring kit
- Crane 1.7 roller rockers
- Trickflow pushrods
- b303 cam
- BBK headers
- GT40p intake
- 70mm BBK throttle body
- C&L 75mm MAF housing
- 24lb injectors
- BBK fuel Pressure Regulator
Drivetrain:
- Stock t5 trans w/ z32 slave cylinder supplied by a wilwood clutch master
- Custom driveshaft
- Ford explorer 8.8 That's been shortened with custom cnc brackets by Stardom Fab
Suspension
- Custom 4 link Rear Upper and Lower control arms with heims on all ends. by Stardom Fab
- T3 panhard bar.
- Megan racing FC coilovers adapted to fit.
- Custom (extended 3" per side) front lower control arms by Stardom Fabmade from ar500 armor plate and dom tube made to use a factory s4 rx7 ball joint.
Brakes
- Turbo 2 Front Brakes and Spindles
- Explorer Rear Disks and Calipers
- Inline hydraulic handbrake by Stardom Fab
Interior
- Trailtech Vapor LED Gauge Pod in custom dash by Stardom Fab
- Hit and Run Quick Release
- Momo hub adapter
- NRG steering wheel
Safety
- Full Formula D spec cage by Stardom Fab
Fuel
- Jaz fuel cell
- Assault Racing Low Pressure Pump
- Custom Surge Tank by Stardom Fab
- deatschwerks 255il fuel pump
- AN fuel lines
Electrical
- 500cca Harley agm battery
- Custom wiring throughout
Exterior
- Custom wing stands with 69" wing by Stardom Fab
- 6" led light bars for headlights
- Blacktie Motors bumper lights with blue lights.
- Blacktie Motor's Widebody
Steering
- T3 steering box brace
- FC Megan racing outer tie rods
- FC Godspeed outers used as inners
- 70 degrees of steering angle
Shameless Shout Outs
- BlackTie Motor Works
- @Stardom Fab on Instagram
- Photo Credit goes to Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear on Instagram. Great group of local photographers that showcase locals and huge events.
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
Monday, February 19, 2018
Aero
Jim H, from Blacktie Motorsports has put together a nice informational video about FB RX7s and available flares and wide body gear.
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| Zachary Nazeck @Excessive Wear |
Pan Hard Bar
I have it installed. As mentioned the panhard runs from the lower watts link chassis point under the differential, and to the lower trailing arm on the axle. Install and adjustment were easy enough and I had heard it was an upgrade when lowering the rear. I haven't noticed any deformation or anything but I only us the car for daily driving and monthly autocross events. One problem with it running under the axle is that when the rear hangs the bar contacts the third member and hits when the axle is articulated either direction. Also the mounting points are offset front to rear so I don't know if that causes any sort of rear stear since it has a conical travel.
FC Subframe
You'll need to use long bolts and space it up above the subframe about 1/2". I used some locknuts I had laying around. When you mark your subframe, the marks should be 30 5/8" apart.
Here's a pic to show the drill template installed on the passenger side. Use the outboard hole to mark where to drill.
The following Write Up is from http://buildraceparty.com/thefcsubframeinanfbrx7/
I have been asked many times how I go about this, so I figured it would be worthwhile to lay it out so I can just disseminate a link. I have better things to do than repeat myself all the time. Why do you want to bother? The first of the RX-7 lineup is a cheap (used to be), simple car but one of the biggest drawbacks is everything forward of the firewall. Yes, I am going include the 12a in that statement because Mazda has deemed many parts to be NLA and now they are a novelty more than anything. However, we can solve this and make these little cars a bit more modern and a lot more fun to drive.
I want to be clear that I am not the first person to do this, nor do I know who was. What I do know is a good friend of mine did this around 2006 to solve many of the inequities of the first gen chassis and I was amazed at the simplicity of it. As it turns out, Mazda developed the FC suspension on the FB to keep prying eyes from knowing too much about the redesign. This has led to the rather fortunate fact that the front subframe from the FC is dimensionally compatible with the FB. So much so, that in one method you can reuse two of the FB’s original studs to mount and located the FC subframe. Pretty damn nifty.
The nomenclature (so we are all on the same page)
FC – referring to the 1986-1991 model years of Rx-7 and the source of the parts to be installed, source from the vin stamping.
FB – Technically the 1981-1985 model years in the US, however “SA” used in other markets and for 79-80 in US.
What do you need?
Misc. Metric tools
From the FC: subframe, steering rack, hubs, knuckles, brakes, steering column from FC or powersteering FB, coilovers. I say coilovers because cobbled together FC/FB dampers and springs nearly hit the wheel and the stock upper mounts wont allow for cambering (nearly positive camber with stock).
A rear, lower suspension link from the FB
High grade, long metric bolts (length determined later)
Hammer
Round file
Jack and stands
Angle grinder
Drill
A welder, 110v MIG will do fine.
Gin
How do you begin?
Simply put, remove everything. The engine, the subframe, the suspension, brakes, steering box, the lot of it. You will find that the steering box for the non power steering cars is a bit feisty to get since it directly enters the box. This requires a straight removal and is evidence that I wasn’t bullshitting you about needing the power steering column OR an FC column. Outside of this you can always make a custom thing, but I leave that to your imagination.
Remember those choose your own ending books when you were little? This is a bit like that. You need to decide if you are going to use the original front studs to locate the subframe, or do it yourself. The trade off is simple. Locating with the original studs moves the subframe forward one inch, which causes the tires to interfere with the fender. This means trimming the fender or flares. That said, this route is very easy, and you gain an inch of wheelbase, and some castor. Finally, if you use the stock engine mount arrangement, the water pump comes in close contact with the FB radiator, making a cooling fan setup very difficult. Given all that, this is what I have done on most of my swaps. Otherwise, you must located the subframe yourself, being very careful to locate the axle in the center of the fenders and but be sure to make it square. Friends have done this with success, but obviously requires more attention to detail.
Let’s assume you want to do what I did…
With a cleared engine bay, hop in and remove the rear studs by grinding away the welds. With ample grindage, you can pop them out by hitting from below with a hammer.
Since the bolts that you can buy readily have smaller heads, I make a support plate from 1/8″ steel, typically 2″ wide stock cut down to size. I then drill and file a whole for the bolt to pass through that allows the bolt to be upright and the plate to meet the angle of the body. (see image below)
Its best to measure for the next step, which is getting the right bolt for the rear. I was able to source high grade, metric bolts from my local Fastenal. Your results may vary. They need to be long enough that the threads poke through the bottom to allow the bolt to thread fully. Since I used the supporting spacer, some length is added there. I forgot what I used at the time, but since bolts only coming in varying lengths, its pretty obvious which will work for you.
On the subframe, grind off the locator studs that stick up. They will prevent you from mounting flush to the frame. If your OCD, then your welcome to locate and drill holes in the body for them as opposed to removal.
Loosely attach the subframe. You should notice that the crimp of the body sheet metal hits the subframe. Mark and trim these spots. Be careful not to cut through the body! (see image below)
Once its all assembled and torqued, you can now weld the head of the bolt to the plate. (see image below)
Photo: Alex Staidle
Photo: Alex Staidle
Photo: Alex Staidle.
Photo: Alex Staidle
Now you can begin putting things back in!
You can stick in the rack and pinion. Both the power steering or non-power steering variants work. This is a good time for replacing boots, seals, rod ends, etc. Also, the “proper manual conversion” is great for those who do not like their steering assisted.
If you wish to have the sway bar, now is the time to located it. You will need to weld in threaded bungs. Also ensure that the movement of the suspension is good at the location before you weld.
Photo: Alex Staidle
Photo: Alex Staidle
The hubs and knuckles should attach as OEM intended. Sometimes junkyard items are damaged. You’ll find out at this step.
Coilovers……almost! Now you must use FB pillow ball mounts, or break out the round file. You will notice that the FB four hole distance is smaller than the FC. A company called T3 makes an FC – FB intercompatible pillow ball, however, they are rather puny in both the bearing size and plate design. They work okay but I’m not impressed by them. If you compare them to the HKS pillow balls, you will see the difference. I resolved this by carefully round filing the holes directly outward until reaching the FC spacing. Mark carefully and take your time.
Now you can add the coilovers.
Photo: Alex Staidle
Photo: Alex Staidle
Photo: Alex Staidle
You are not done yet. You need to connect the steering column. So once again you have to make some choices:
The FB power steering column will bolt into the underdash and accept the various controls with ease.
The FC column requires removal of brackets and attachment of FB column mounts. The FC column is also not going to mount the FB switches. They have difference diameters for mounting.
You can make something custom.
Regardless, you need to lengthen the FC intermediate shaft to meet with the steering column. This is done by cutting in half, then elongating with a metal tube. As it happens, the rear suspension link inner diameter is the same as the steering shaft’s outer diameter! Before welding together, ensure that the u-joints are positioned in phase otherwise you will get an elliptical motion in the intermediate shaft making for unusual steering feel. There is room for interpretation here and likely more ways than I’ve considered. As such, be prepared for some tomfoolery to get this step done, especially without the power steering column.
What about using 4 lug hubs on the 4 piston brakes?
A long time ago, on a well known rotary car forum, a thread was made about how to do this. Googling the topic should bring up the how to. Essentially;
make two, 4mm spacers.
Redrill the rotors to 4×114.3.
Assemble.
This is actually harder than I made it sound if your tooling is crude.
Photo: Alex Staidle
Photo: Alex Staidle
Photo: Alex Staidle
The finished product!
Being that I trimmed the fenders, I opted for flares from 240z.
The steering is quicker, with greatly improved feedback.
Handing is superb.
Brakes are improved.
Everything is serviceable.
Photo: Alex Staidle
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